MOSHIMO - THE SHOJI EXPERIENCE
Moshimo; Arguably Brighton’s most unique diner with those famous sliding screens that can open to the outside and a deck with Japanese style seating on Bartholomew Square. This reputation has been enhanced by The Shoji Experience; a new Covid style aesthetic to create an even more authentic dining experience. Whereas most restaurants have had to alter their dining plan with much reluctance and trepidation, Moshimo have interpreted Government measures in a far more creative way with these translucent red panels, not only proving pragmatic but also conforming to their progressive ethos.
I wasn’t actually aware what Shoji meant until a quick Google search enlightened me. A shoji is a sliding panel made of translucent paper in a wooden frame, used as doors, interior walls and windows in Japanese architecture, valued for preventing a sharp barrier between the interior and the exterior. After its launch on 4th July 2020, The Shoji Experience has shone light and optimism amidst the pandemic, almost acting as a symbolic reminder that life will continue after all of this (even if it will be in accord with ‘the new normal’). The fun, translucent panels have converted the restaurant into a meandering maze of private booths as well as more intimate tables for two, making it a splendid setting for all occasions. Moshimo has always been reliable for a great atmosphere whether that be in the day time or evening, and the Shoji Experience enhanced this even more.
SUSTAINABLE DINING
Moshimo’s successful ‘Fishlove’ campaign depicts the aforementioned progressive ethos. Featuring celebrities such as Helena Bonham-Carter and Dame Judi Dench in a series of striking images, this is a global campaign to end overfishing, urging EU fisheries to take urgent action and achieve the ecologically diverse, clean and healthy seas as promised by 2020. It has succeeded in raising significant awareness for campaigns such as Marine Conservation Society, OCEAN2012, Deep Sea Coalition, The End of the Line, and Blue Marine Foundation. Moshimo strictly doesn’t serve fish that is listed as “fish to avoid” by the Marine Conservation Society.
Beyond the campaign, all drinks are homemade to avoid the use of single-use plastic, produce is sustainably sourced and plant-based eating is very much promoted (if you haven’t already tried their ‘Vegan duck’ you are seriously missing out). Members can enjoy 50% off their bill on ‘Vegan Wednesdays’, and the membership fee itself contributes to the campaign in gaining media coverage that simply no other campaigns can.
MEMBERSHIPS
At just £24 a year, Moshimo members can revel in an array of perks such as 50% off the full menu on Mondays and Tuesdays, Vegan Wednesdays, 20% off Poke Don Sundays and a complimentary bottle of prosecco on your birthday.
FOOD
Now enough of the storytelling, it’s about time I mentioned the food!
The menu is split into Sushi, Poke, Kōzara (small plates), Gyoza, Hot Mains and Noodles. My previous visits have been with family and therefore we opted for a hearty selection of the sushi, Kozara (hot small plates) and a hot mains with rice (such as the Loch Duart Salmon Teriyaki), allowing us to challenge our tastebuds with different flavours. I’ve even had one of the ‘Korean Kick’ Poke Bowls from Deliveroo which was full of flavour and travelled well given this is a cold dish.
Because our booking was for lunch time I steered away from the hot mains, although my friend ordered the trusty Yasai Vegetable Katsu (breaded aubergine, courgette and sweet potatoes served with a mild Japanese curry sauce) and I opted for four Kozara instead. These were:
Tuna Tataki with Korean Chilli
“Seared maguro tuna sashimi served with a sauce made with grated apple, apple juice and chilli”.
The quality of the fish really shone through here where it was cut with precision and had a really meaty texture. I felt that there could have been a lot more flavour to the apple and the Korean chilli though. I would be keen to try the Citrus Salmon Tataki next time as I suspect the combination of ginger, orange and lemon will pack more of a punch.
Chicken Kang Jung
“Morsels of fried marinated free-range chicken and peanuts in a firecracking Korean sauce”.
I previously really enjoyed this dish, however on this occasion the dish arrived slightly cold and therefore the batter seemed somewhat stale. I suspect this was down to the poor service and our food had been waiting at the counter for a while. The portion was particularly small and I personally think there are stronger contenders for Japanese fried chicken such as Bincho Yakitori or Chikini.
Agedashi Tofu
“Tofu, crispy fried in cornflour and served in a dashi sauce”.
The light, crispy fried tofu was great (especially as tofu can taste quite bland before seasoned!) although we weren’t actually instructed that the dashi was more of a broth rather than a dipping sauce. For this reason I felt that I didn’t quite get it’s full flavour and I sadly blame this on the service again.
Aubergine Dengaku
“Succulent fried aubergine chunks with a delicious sweet miso sauce”.
This was an impulsive order while our waiter struggled to advise on a second plant-based dish. While the aubergine was undeniably succulent, I found the saltiness of the miso slightly overpowering compared with when I’ve tasted it to be sweet on other dishes. I was quite surprised given that aubergine is often very well paired with miso, so perhaps the miso-blend was off on this occasion.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Unfortunately I found our experience to be very much under-par compared with previous visits. Perhaps we chose wrong? Perhaps the team were just really under pressure from the Eat Out to Help Out scheme? I would hate to say we won’t be back given that previous visits have been good, but if this had been my first visit that may not have been the case! Ultimately our experience was mediocre because the service fell on this occasion, and I don’t doubt that the usual standard will resume now that the Government scheme has ended. The red flags to be noted are:
Cold and unfriendly communication when seated (we asked to move somewhere more sheltered because there was a cold wind blowing through the opened screens), and similarly when discussing which plates to order (I wasn’t advised that it’s best to order miso and rice alongside the small plates, and as a result the dishes didn’t feel substantial enough)
Unclean tables - many surrounding tables were full of uncleared plates after diners had already left.
Passed between multiple staff members particularly towards the end of service (presumably our original waiter went on lunch break or had finished a shift, but this wasn’t communicated at all and we were left unattended for almost an hour).
Very slow service (3 hours for a lunch time sitting. Thankfully we were in no rush).
I’m often hesitant to post negative restaurant reviews, especially as I tend to dine at independents where reviews can really have an impact. But a recent comment from another local food blogger made me rethink my approach.
Like all reporters, as food reviewers we almost have a duty to report with honesty for if we didn’t, how would these independents improve? Service isn’t going to be 100% every time and some customers are perpetually unimpressed. But without constructive feedback these businesses would never have the information to raise the standard, and consequently lose customers. As fair and well-seasoned critics in the industry, we therefore have a responsibility to share the bad as much as the good!
Moshimo responded to my comments on Instagram within a day of posting, and I hope that the feedback has been well-received.
