MED, BRIGHTON
I don’t know about you but I haven’t stopped hearing about Med, Brighton’s newest casual dining spot which is tucked away in the heart of the city on Little East Street. This is the fabric of when two youthful food fanatics bang heads together to produce a tempest of honest food, beginning with their pop up, Wolfsmouth, which later took over the kitchen of the award winning Paradiso Social bar in 2019. Unfortunately I didn’t get to any of their pop ups before the boys announced they would be putting an end to the Wolfsmouth project, but in capturing the hearts of Brighton’s studied foodies, Wolfsmouth refined their niche and paved the way for what was to come next; in the form of small plates and fine dining. I trusted the noise on social media with this one!
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One cannot deny that this style of eating is now on trend, as we are moving away from the rigid and almost possessive mentality of “I ordered that” “This is my plate of food, no-one else’s” (in true Smithy from Gavin and Stacey style). Of course there is a time and a place for that, perhaps with plates such as a roast dinner where the only variation is the meat. But if like me you love your food so much so that you’re paralysed when it comes to making a decision, small sharing plates are a dream not only to eliminate the sheer pressure in public, but to give a truly authentic restaurant experience. The zealous, traditional restauranteurs among us may still complain (I can think of a few older family members), but there’s another advantage. Still hungry? Let’s order more! This is why I adore dining in this way and I believe that the boys at Med have really hit the jackpot since opening their doors on 30th July.
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I won’t lie, I arrived at the restaurant in a real fluster with the typical gusts from the seafront virtually pushing me through the door. But from the moment that door shut behind me, the noise outside was blocked and I was in a calming place of zen. The level headed waitress took me to my friend who had already arrived and we sat amongst well-distanced, yet warm and intimate tables with clean, minimal decor and an informal feel. The focus really is on the food and ingredients here and rightly so. With a diverse yet manageable menu of contemporary and classical cuisine from across the shores of the Mediterranean, you will find colourful small plates abundant in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, legumes and healthy fats. As you may know, the Mediterranean diet is renowned for being good for the heart and loaded with health benefits - making this a fantastic option for a mid-week venture.
We tried the set lunch menu as part of the Eat Out to Help Out Government scheme, allowing us a starter, main and dessert all for under £10! Be aware that their menu changes regularly.
STARTER
Both options were of the tomato variety which I could not complain of especially given burrata was on there! However, I suspect some fussier diners might prefer an alternative to tomatoes. The Burrata was oozing with its soft, creamy texture as it fell onto the clean, onion infused tomatoes when cut. My friend opted for the Panzanella; a Tuscan chopped salad with fried off chunks of bread, onions and fresh tomatoes.
MAIN
I opted for the Artichoke and Courgette Casarecce which happened to be Vegetarian. The fresh, zesty flavours (of what was presumably a pesto of some kind) really enhanced the subtle earthy flavours of the veg. The pasta was homemade and cooked beautifully al dente, far from the sticky, starchy sort you sometimes get served or found in packets at home! Although I am not Vegan (as my love for burrata may display), my only mention would be that the pasta arrived with parmesan already on top so perhaps check with your waiter if you are concerned about Vegan options on the lunch menu.
My friend went for the Beef Ragu which I tried a few bites of. Similarly, the Casarecce was beautifully cooked and the ragu tasted rich, savoury and somewhat nutty when partnered with the parmesan shavings. You can’t go wrong in opting for a ragu can you!
DESSERT
I’m not always fussed by desserts, but the Amalfi Lemon Cake was dare I say it, handsomely moist and lemony with a generous dollop of Creme Fraiche and Strawberries thrown on top. The texture almost reminded me of a dessert made with almond flour; spongy but slightly more dense and less springy than conventional bakes. I personally prefer them this way.
CONCLUDING THOUGHTS
It cannot go without saying that their lunch menu is insane value for money and I would definitely go back even outside of the Government scheme, but given there are so many dishes I want to try from the evening menu I will definitely be making that my next visit! I cannot wait to try the Crispy Potatoes with Bravas, Clams with Vinho Verde & Chorizo and the Market Fish grilled over coal. My only comment would be that it took a while for us to grab the attention of our waitress when we were ready to order, although I suspect this is only a minor teething issue. The service was otherwise very pleasant.
All in all, a great first experience and I expect there will be big things to come out of this hidden gem!
Head to their website for more information on reservations and the current menu, or @med.restaurant.brighton on Instagram for a visual walkthrough of what they’re all about.
Above: Tuscan Panzanella
Below: Burrata and Tomato Salad
Above: Artichoke and Courgette Casarecce
Below: Beef Ragu Casarecce
