EATING MY WAY THROUGH VENICE
Step off the plane and almost immediately you’re transported to the camaraderie that awaits. You’re either waiting for the vaporetto (water bus) or the airport bus: neither of these win on glam but are part of the magic as you anticipate the bewitching fairytale that awaits. Climb onboard with your fellow spectators of this thoroughfare and find yourself banging shoulders, nervously smirking to one another (since this is the common language between you both) while the boat bumps you off your seat. You can of course have opted for a far comfortable option with a private water taxi, but where’s the fun in that? Not to mention they cost a fortune to this mysterious location.
I am of course heading to Venice, “The Floating City”, or ‘Venezia’ as it’s known by the locals. This is the first leg of my trip in Northern Italy. While I did visit some of the main sights of Venice, art and culture by no means my area of expertise and my city guide is therefore through a foodie’s lens!
Coffee & Bakeries
Just to note that Venice isn’t known for being the most welcoming of cafe hoppers or freelancers, so if you plan to work on your trip, bear in mind that the options are limited (unless you’re happy to visit the library).
Torrefazione Cannaregio
This is the only speciality coffee shop in Venice and it was very conveniently just a few minutes walk from my Air Bnb! With a few canal side tables and crowds of locals outside, it was particularly easy to spot as a more progressive coffee shop compared with other cafes in Venice (where the custom is to stand at the bar with an espresso and leave). Home roasted coffee beans are neatly tucked in mahogany awnings behind the counter with friendly youthful barista’s taking your order. This is where the more trendy, liberal coffee types hang out, being one of the only cafe’s where freelancers are welcomed and wifi is available.
Sullaluna
Part bistro, part bookshop. This adorable little cafe is an unknown gem unless you’re already staying in Cannaregio. There’s a very laid back vibe and rustic furniture adorning this quaint little cafe. I noticed a few student looking types sat with their laptops out over lunch, while there were also older couples popping in for a wine by the canal. It was also one of the few places I came across which had a Vegan menu. Grab a pastry or a snack in the day, or tuck into a vegetarian plate at night.
Il Fornaretto
Buried into a typical Venetian side street, this delightful little bakery had a queue full of locals waiting to collect their daily bread when I walked past - it was bound to be good. I popped back the next morning and sat by the canal, armed with coffee and a selection of pastries (of which I had no idea of what they were but they were splendid). The three ladies running the roost seemed to be sisters - each of them very patient with my feeble attempt at Italian and helping with my indecision of what to have! My tip with bakeries would be to not overthink it: unlike the with Venetian restaurants, trust your gut and just get out there and try the one you like the look of. If it has a queue full of locals waiting to collect their daily bread, the chances are it’s a good’un!
Bars & Snacks
Come night time there’s an outgoing vibe in the heart of the gritty neighbourhood, Cannaregio. Any of the bars along ‘Fondementa de la Misericordia’ seem reliable for a good time. I can’t say I spent an entire evening at any of them, but I did pick up a few Aperol’s along here while strolling back home from the city centre.
Cichetti are symbolic of the city and you’ll find them everywhere. These tasty little bar snacks are typically served in ‘bàcari’ (cichetti bars) and topped with anything from artichoke hearts, to cod roe and cold cuts, often paired with a tasty cheese or herby salsa of some sort. The best I tried was a salsa verde, girolles and fresh anchovies.
Vino Vero
Situated on the Cannaregio fringe, this natural wine has a contemporary feel to it much like some of the UK’s contemporary wine bars (Brighton crew, I’m thinking Plateau and Fourth & Church). Modern features and a lap of fresh paint make Vino Vero stand out from the traditional Venetian bars, most of which have been there for centuries. Wine geeks flock here while the staff share their expert knowledge and background of all of the wines available, though I did find the service mildly condescending (maybe this is a universal thing with organic wine culture?!). Come here to sip on the canal side with high-end but affordable cichetti, amongst vintage shops and rustic surroundings. It’s very popular, so prepare to keep a hawk eye out for a seat.
Dining Out
Alla Vedova
I stumbled across this while venturing down a typical Venetian alleyways and recognised the name from the Michelin Guide. Alla Vedova (also known as ‘Cà D’Oro alla Vedova’) is your classic Venetian trattoria with cosy tables and covered in antiques and newspaper pull outs, giving its evocative feel. Staff are sweet and I found to be a lot more patient than some of the other restaurants I visited! An accessible but undisputed menu hones in on typical Venetian cuisine with regional ingredients and wine.
Must try dishes are the ‘Polpette Di Carne E Aglio’ (which I would never have ordered if it wasn’t for the lovely Italian couple I was chatting to). Order one if you just want a taste, or share a few between the table if you really want some sumptuous, fried gluttony. The Crab Tagliolini was also superb with the buttery taste of fresh egg pasta being lifted by the toothsome, sweet tomatoes.
Osteria Alle Testiere
Tucked away on a Castello backstreet with typical cotton cloth curtains, Alle Testiere is a 2-man band with Luca as Front of House and Chef Bruno in the kitchen. There’s a reason this tiny Osteria gets booked up months in advance by those in the know. It really is faultless from the buoyant yet soothing ambience, to the thrilling ingredients used. These are freshly collected at the nearby Rialto market every morning and for this reason the menu is dynamic, changing with whatever is available that morning. Don’t return expecting to have the same heavenly dish you had last time!
The food is uncomplicated and I was seriously divided by what to have, with imaginative plates such as ‘Gingered Carpet Shell Clams’ and ‘Potato Gnocchetti with Small Calamari and Cinnamon Scent’ tempting my taste buds. I decided on the ‘Pilgrim Scallops with Lemon and Peppermint’ to start and ‘Spaghetti with Bevarasse Clams’ as my main, which while it is basic, exuded elegance with just a few ingredients. Again, it’s in the quality. Luca is delightful and very helpful with his wine recommendations, matching your pairing to your taste. The way he effortlessly floats around the tightly packed tables is part of the event.
Gelato
Again, Venice has an abundance of Gelato shops as you may depend, but do look out for a few things to make sure you’re getting the good stuff. My tips? No mounds, no artificial and bright colours, and keep a hawk eye out for places which only service gelato. A good gelateria can only afford to make good gelato (with the exception of GalatiNico, which for those of my readers in Hove, has a similar feel to Marraccos!). Gelateria Ca’ D’oro is one of the newer, artisan shops which offers a plethora of flavours inspired by the tastes of the local area, with all products made in their small Venetian laboratory. GelatiNico on the other hand is an institution, located by the scenic promenade and perfect for a romantic sunset scoop. Whatever you do, always say Gelato in front of an Italian - never ice cream!! Gelato uses more milk than it uses cream and eggs, making it lower in fat than ice cream. The two are very different, apparently.
On my List for Next Time:
I have to say that I had one or two sub-par experiences in Venice and at the time I was kicking myself for not trying elsewhere, but that’s all part of the experience of travelling. I’d love to get to the following restaurants and bars for a future visit.
All’arco (lunch)
Al Gato Nero (dining)
Al Covo (dining)
CoVino (dining)
Paradiso Perduto (bar)
Venice Jazz Club (bar/night out)
My Key Tips:
Stay in Venice for at least 2 nights to really live the Venetian life. Experience the wake-up calls of the gondoliers' ‘Ooooeeeee!’, grab a morning spritz if you’re partial to a tipple or two, have lunch in a crowded bacaro, and admire the glorious pink sunsets which sent the Renaissance artists crazy. Any more than 3 days and you might get a bit fed up with the crowds. Do your research beforehand since you can very easily get pulled into the tourist traps, which at first glance appear charming but likely lack the authenticity you’re after.
Despite the fact I was only in Venice for 2 nights, I did a lot of research beforehand and have endless lists of places to eat and neighbourhood insights. So if you’re planning a trip to Venice and have any questions, do drop me a message on Instagram!
