EATING MY WAY THROUGH BOLOGNA
I’m boarding a train from the boisterous Venezia Santa Lucia station after hauling my suitcase through the constant twists and turns of the Venetian alleyways. The train journey itself is the antithesis of this. Despite the trains’ speed, I experience a sense of serenity as I’m catapulted through the sun-soaked vistas of the Emilia Romagna countryside. These are the vistas with the conditions to produce Italy’s finest gastronomical assets: Balsamic Vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano, Parma Ham to name just a few. The journey lasts just under 2 hours and to me it is a safe haven and an excuse to relax before I’m anticipating the commotion at my destination.
I’m heading to Bologna after being convinced by *that* Stanley Tucci show and as a fervent foodie, I’m slightly ashamed to admit that I had no knowledge of the city until a few months ago. Bolognian’s are hedonistic eaters, with big appetites for all of the rich classics which have struck the hearts of even the pickiest of eaters across the world. Its nickname “La Grassa” (“The Fat One”) is emblematic of its character. Additional nicknames “La Dotta” (“The Educated”) and “La Rossa” (“The Red”) also capture its uniqueness as a city of juxtapositions. Bologna combines the haughty culture of its affluent Emilia Romagna folk and the gritty, gothic edge of its young-blooded students. With the world’s oldest university (founded in 1088), it's been a haven for intellectuals and creatives, meaning its people are forward-thinking and open-minded unlike many other Italian cities. Wander through the terracotta porticoes at dusk and you’ll see stylish well-to-do ladies sipping on a spritz, while scruffy undergraduates are arguing politics over a bowl of “Tortellini in Brodo” (a healing bowl of pasta in broth with a reputation not too dissimilar from that of chicken soup). In hindsight I’m a bit gutted I never tried this dish, but I did manage to feast my way through a lot of the other delicacies.
Unlike the rest of my Italian trip, most of my culinary endeavours were in the daytime here. I missed out on several of the restaurants I wanted to visit because I was naive to believe it would be easy as a table for 1. But what I did do was partake in my first pasta class with @pastarisottobologna (which was a truly authentic experience in the top-floor apartment of our teacher and professional chef, Dennis!), as well as speak to a number of locals about their favourite places to eat!
Coffee & Bakeries
Forno Brisa
If I was a local, I’d definitely be a regular here. There are supposedly several specialty coffee shops in Bologna but this is the only place that met my penchant for third wave coffee. By that I mean a consideration for the culture around the store: prioristing location, the relationship between customers and the barista’s, and of course the overall product offering (coffee so fresh that the crema hasn’t split by the time the milk is used to meld the two into a silky, yielding foam). In a chat with one of the barista’s (who also happened to be ex-housemates with my pasta teacher from the day before!), he explains that Italians are very traditional in their tastes and habits around coffee. They don’t want to pay the premium and they drink their coffee in a hurry - not to mention they favour the taste of a traditional roast: dark, flat and distinctly bitter.
Beyond the talk of coffee, Forno Brisa is better known for their artisanal bread and baked goods which are always served with a smile. Anything from your regular almond croissant to traditional Maritozzo (a soft brioche-style bun filled with sweetened cream). Fancy something savoury? I can vouch that the Roman pizza (which has a thicker base similar to focaccia and always served by the slice) is solid, especially the slice topped with Coppa and smoked Scamorza cheese. This is put in the oven for a couple of minutes beforehand so it lands in your hands piping hot with a superb, crisp base.
Cafe Terzi
I enjoyed the novelty of the experience here rather than the excellent coffee (it was good, just not my favourite). Tucked away just behind Bologna’s iconic Two Towers, this place is typically old-school: a bit like an Italianised British tea-room with barista’s in uniform and art deco panelling. Have your house-blend espresso at the bar alongside a cannoli or a little biscuit, cleanse your palette with a tiny glass of water (another Italian ritual) and be on with the rest of your day.
Corner Bar
Beaten off the tourist track, I was surprised this had a slightly Anglicised brunch menu with plates such as avocado toast amongst your regular Italian sandwiches and cold-cut platters. Staff are youthful and forthcoming in offering their recommendations if you’re undecided (I very much was while I questioned my need for coffee in the 30 degree heat!).
Aroma Speciality Coffee
Try the ‘Fior Di Latte’ for a refreshing treat while you take refuge from the sunshine under the portico. It’s more like a dessert than a coffee!
Bars & Snacks
Fabrik
A slight “jack of all trades” bar come cafe, but they manage to nail everything. Fabrik is known for its enticing local cutting boards and a rich list of Italian wines, as well as made-to-order artisan sandwiches and handmade sweet treats. Pop by in the daytime and sit amongst the snug interior while sipping on your coffee and watching the world go by, or head over in the evening for an aperol and sharing board with some chums. Prices are very affordable without compromising on quality; so affordable that I doubted the size of the dishes available and ordered two. I was then faced with a seasonal salad, a huge plate of burrata and local cuts of meat!
Street Eats
Ragū
It was a very last minute decision to pop into this edgy street-food joint and I was glad I did! Ragū is the ideal spot to grab a fresh box of pasta while on the go, or alternatively sit on one of the roadside tables amongst the youthful clientele. The cheery chap at the counter was keen to get me to try some specialities, explaining I could change it if my tastebuds were offended. I was apprehensive about trying some of his suggestions, but I was not disappointed. The sparkling red wine was refreshing in the midst of the heatwave, while the richness of the “Ancient ragū” (fresh egg tagliatelle with a mixture of veal cuts and liver) paired superbly.
Pasta Fresca Naldi
A small army of Nonna’s are relentlessly kneading pasta dough behind the doors of Pasta Fresca Naldi - Bologna’s best kept secret (or not). This little pasta lab is unassuming and slightly off course on a road where the city locals get boozy. Famous recipes such as the ‘tortellini al pasticcio’ (“Tortellini to the mess” or ragu with cream) and the green lasagna are renowned for selling out just 10 minutes after opening, but other dishes such as the ‘Gramigna all Salsiccia’ (short curly pasta served in a traditional sausage sauce) and ‘Spaghetti al Limone e Crudo’ (prosciutto and lemon) are a refreshing affair amongst the Bolognian classics. My tip? Arrive early and definitely go on an empty stomach.
Mercato Ritrovato
Discover a kaleidoscope of artisan goods and produce at this weekly farmers market loved by locals. I’d already visited Forno Brisa that morning so I didn’t have the stomach for Italian delights such as fried crocchette and other street food snacks, BBQ’ed fish fresh from the Adriatic, and of course there were stands with fresh pasta on offer. I seriously had to stop myself. Instead I went for a refreshing tangerine sorbet from the forward-thinking Stefino Gelateria, a brand which only uses organic ingredients and everything is suitable for vegans.
Gelato
Cremeria D’Azeglio / Pasticceria D’Azeglio
It was the fridge full of fior di latte and nutella ice cream sandwiches that lured me into yet another gelato, and I didn’t regret it one bit. Like with a lot of the gelateria’s, I was seriously stumped at a decision while there were unique flavours on offer such as Zabaione (similar to eggnog) with praline and cocoa cream. Eventually I decided on a trusty scoop of salted pistachio held in a hazelnut frosted cone and topped with fresh whipped cream - don’t knock it until you’ve tried it! Everything at this takeaway spot is meticulously made in house - just look at the panettone’s on offer at their pasticceria next door (which you can even have customised or stuffed with their artisan ice cream at Christmas time, mmm).
On my List for Next Time
My Key Tips for Bologna
Restaurants: BOOK in advance. I missed out on several of the restaurants I wanted to visit because I was silly to believe it would be easy as a table for 1! Food is so important to the locals here that they’ll eat out whatever day of the week it is.
Keep an open-mind: try some of the dishes which are typical of the Emilian city such as a bolognese cutlet (breaded veal cutlet), which isn’t particularly insta-worthy but it boasts flavour with ingredients such as thin slices of sweet-cured ham being topped with nutty local parmesan, and the breadcrumb coating peppered with nutmeg.
General: If you’re keen on keeping your days full and being on your feet for hours, you can definitely cover Bologna in 3 days. If you prefer to take things at a leisurely pace, stay an extra night and use the morning of when you’re travelling back to get to some of the undiscovered spots. I particularly loved the leafy areas outside of Bologna’s city walls and there are some great parks or hikes which are within walking distance of the city centre. Immerse yourself in the Bolognian lifestyle and retreat to Giardini Margherita where you can work, rest and play like the locals amongst 65 acres of the leafy lungs of the city. The former municipal greenhouses have been transformed into free co-working spaces for freelancers and students alike as part of a big redevelopment to encourage social innovation. Stay behind for a drink or even explore the full events programme by Le Serre dei Giardini. If hiking is more your thing, local blogger Taste Bologna has a list of great hikes. I happened to stumble across ‘San Michele in Bosco’ which offered a great panoramic view of the city.
I feel like I barely touched the surface of Bologna’s culinary offering (since it’s so vast) but I did speak to a lot of locals throughout my time there. So if you’re in need of any restaurant recommendations then I can always point you in the right direction!
